Idyllic Luang Prabang
When a country is not targeted by travel companies, it is good news for the independent travellers looking for something rustic and untainted by hordes of tourists on a guided tour, especially from a particular country.
Luang Prabang, in Northern Laos, is a UNESCO world heritage site which boasts of gilded temples, charming cafes and beautiful waterfalls off the beaten track.
Off We Go
Scoot now flies direct from Singapore to Luang Prabang. A return fare with baggage is under $200. Feeling good about the budget fare, I checked up on the airbnbs available and booked the first one run by two expats with great reviews. Our hosts booked a tuk-tuk with driver to pick us up from the airport. We shared the ride with an Australian doctor who came here to give one months’ voluntary service to an international children’s hospital . He has been doing this for the last ten year
You’ve Been Warned – It’s that Time of the Year
Little did we know until our host told us that we’ll be
arriving smack in the middle of the Lao new year of Pi Mai for the first two
days. I’ve always loved celebrations and events as they add so much local
flavor to the trip. This one promised and delivered lots of splashes and sprays
as well. This is celebrated yearly every 13-16 April in the hot, summer season.
It is wet and wild but reportedly a toned down version of the more boisterous
Songkran celebrated during the same time in Thailand.
It is a period of cleansing and renewal. Out with the bad,
in with the good, using water as a medium for the blessings. In the temples,
sacred images are tenderly bathed and outside, everyone gets a dose of the
blessings too.
Expect to be soaked as you move along the streets by a
steady line of troopers armed with buckets of water, hoses, or high-pressure
water guns. The locals were mostly friendly and accommodating when we asked
them to be merciful with the sprays. I had a rather unpleasant experience with
an expat lady and her friends. After being soaked for a good part of the
afternoon, I was thankfully almost dry when we walked past this group. We got
sprayed on in the usual way, despite my protests. That wasn’t enough for her,
it seemed, as she went on to empty another bucket of water over my head and
cackled with glee. No, it is not nice, and not in the Lao spirit, to have fun
at another’s expense while pretending to do so.
More Water Activities
A day-trip out to Tad Kuang Si Waterfalls was one of the
high points of the trip. It was unspoilt and jaw-dropping beautiful. We stayed
out of the water this time. We rented a tuk tuk for 250000 kip ( about $40 for
the somewhat bumpy journey there and back ) I sat with the driver at the front
seat which protected me from the sprayers. Irene sat behind, with the umbrella
for a shield, which worked better here on wheels than on foot.
At Kuang Si, there is also a Bear Sanctuary where the bears
seem happy and playful. It’s a long and arduous trek for the die-hards to get
to the much vaunted “secret pool” so it remained a secret for us. The rest was
easy and pleasant.
We also rented a boat for a sunset cruise along the Mekong River. Bargained it down to 100000 kip. There’s something magical about watching the shifts of light and time, as day gives place to dusk, and evening falls soon after.
There are two bamboo bridges which are built over the Nam Khan river before it meets the Mekong downstream. Each year, they get washed away during the floods in the rainy season and are re-built when the water level drops. The villagers use it to get across the river and so do tourists, for a crossing fee.
Waking up Early Before Sunrise
This was as early as 5 pm to be part of the alms giving
ritual for the monks that take place every morning along the main thorough
fare. We were sleepy but curiosity got the better of us and beat sleepy hands
down. Enterprising stall-owners had brisk sales of sticky rice, snacks and
bottled water for the alms givers. We bought a small serving of rice ( 500 gm )
for the ritual for 5000 kip, basket excluded.
It was a feast for the eyes and a treat for the social
media. All awash in a riot of rich colours, textures and variety.
Laos is known for its hand-woven textiles and fabrics. The clothes sold at the markets in the form of wrap-around pants and sarongs are pretty and very affordable. I bought several in an array of colours.
What’s a visit to Luang Prabang without visiting its most
iconic temple, Wat Xieng Thong? It’s a fine specimen of a Lao Monastery, with
elegant architecture, beautiful mosaics and intricate carvings. It was a key
element in Luang Prabang’s submission for UNESCO status.
There’s Always Room for a Good Massage
Massage is always part of the menu in a trip like this. We
checked out one near Joma cafe prominently displayed as “Hmong”. The setting
was pleasant and inviting. This turned out to be the best massage I’ve ever
had. With every stroke of her skillful hands and fingers, stubborn knots and
tight muscles surrendered to the touch and melted away. It was a good 120 minutes
spent over 2 days. Lao traditional massage is like a cross between Chinese
Tui-Na and Thai massage without the gymnastics. Wished I could get more of that
outside Laos.
It was two days of soaking wet, four days of sweltering
heat, with too many memorable moments in between. Our accommodation was cosy,
the sight-seeing was beyond expectation, food was reasonably priced and good,
getting around was easy ( mostly on foot, afterwards a massage ) Mostly, it was
the people and the warmth emanating from them that stood out for me, despite
what little they had, and the immense suffering they experienced under foreign
powers. Everyone we met had a genuine smile on their face and were readily
approachable, but for their little knowledge of English. There is contentment
and fulfillment in the simple things. The ones who smoked were the foreigners,
not the locals. We did not see branded names or touristy gimmicks. There was no
need for those. Instead, we saw plenty of social interaction, parents
bonding with their children; hardly anyone was keeling over their smart-phones
– they were too busy paying attention to their loved ones next to them…
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