Time Out at Ihwa Mural Village, Seoul
Ihwa Mural Village started life as one of a daldongnae (‘moon villages’) – a name derived from their hilltop locations, traditionally thought to offer a better view of the moon than the cities below. At the end of the Korean War in 1950s, refugees gathered here and made it their home. From a shantytown designated for demolition ,artists have splashed their creative talents on the once grungy walls, stairways and alleys with brightly inviting murals. So much so that some residents, disgruntled with the influx of unwelcomed tourists trampling on their hallowed ground, took matters in their own hands to deface two of the most iconic works along the stairways, splattering cement over the artwork to transform the space to its depressing origin.
It is with a sense of deep regret I set off to explore what’s left of the murals on my first day of arrival in Seoul. This is what I found. My journey began after exiting Hyehwa Station and I found myself in a neighbourhood brimming with vitality and energy. It is in close proximity to learning institutions and there are pockets of street performances sprucing up the main thoroughfare. It is a long trudge up a steep and winding passage to reach the Mural Village but there was plenty to be seen along the way.
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