Mumbai Magic
I have been over-indulged, overwhelmed, and overawed by this city and its 20 million inhabitants.
A year ago, it would not have crossed my mind to make a trip to Mumbai and linger longer than a layover. But a docent training stint with the Singapore Art Museum brought a disparate group of some 12 women ( and a gentleman ) from all walks of life and nationality together in the ‘Greenies’ team ( you know who you are ). We morphed from strangers to good friends. Expat wives have a bad habit of leaving too soon. ” Come and visit me some time”, said V repeatedly. And so, the three of us – American , French and Singaporean , heeded the clarion call, packed our bags and descended upon her beautiful home where we were spoilt silly and totally seduced by all that Mumbai has to offer.
Food, Food, Food
In my book, nothing beats V’s home-cooked gourmet fare. Here are just some of the meals we gobbled .
No visit to Mumbai would be complete without a stop at Swati Snacks, an iconic casual dining vegetarian cafe serving chaats and street fare since 1963. Going by the crowds gathering here – families, friends, locals and foreigners alike, it has definitely struck the right chords to tickle the palette of all and sundry.
We took a peek into inspiring homes of India at Good Earth which takes you on a magic carpet ride of colours and textures to dress up your interiors. Having succumbed to some of its temptations, it was only fitting to lounge at the chi chi settings of the Tasting Room meant to indulge the ladies who lunch.
The Mumbaikars can really party like there’s no tomorrow. We caught a whiff of that on a Saturday evening after a most exquisite, beyond Michelin-worthy dinner at Ziya, followed by cocktails on the highest rooftop bar at Four Seasons. Thanks again to our awesome hosts, V and S. The atmosphere was electrifying, the music invigorating, the people elegantly dressed to rock the dance floor. We were caught up in that trantric mood of the moment which brought time to a standstill, gyrating to the beat and getting lighter with every sip of the potent cocktails. It was almost 4 am when we realised that most of the people around us had already left as we made our way gingerly down the steps, trying not to sway and to walk straight. I can’t remember how we got back!
A Cultural Awakening
” One half of the world does not know how the other half lives.” As if to drive home the point, it has never rung so true as in Mumbai.
Dhobi Ghat
In Singapore, we have Dhoby Ghaut, the train station. In Mumbai, they have THE Dhobi Ghat – the world’s oldest, largest human washing drying and pressing laundromat across from the Mahalaxmi train station. Everyday, the dirty laundry ( except for undergarments ) of the city are being collected, sorted, hung out and beaten, soaked and laundered, spun and wrung in the maze-like open air troughs, and finally dried, ironed and pressed to be delivered in staggering numbers ( imagine 1 million or more ) to their rightful owners. We were told by our guide that each item costs 5 rupees to be washed and another 5 rupees to be ironed. ( about 10 cts in Sg currency ). The dhobis who are the laundrymen, have lived and worked here for generations since 1840.
Dabbawallas ( aka Tiffin Wallahs )
In the rest of the world, sometimes we have packed lunches from home once every now and then. In Mumbai, they have the ultimate labour of love where the working men get home-cooked lunches delivered to them every working day! Enter the Dabbawallas, the precusor of fast food delivery.Their job it is to deliver a hot lunch ( dabba ) from the wife’s and mom’s kitchens in the suburbs to the working place and return the lunch boxes duly relished, back home. This food supply network employs thousands of workers from the rural districts who use their bicycles and the trains, and a system of coding painted on the tiffins for identification. What makes this work for a network for hundreds of thousands of deliveries is sustained by remarkable ingenuity, resource and enterprise which is prevalent in every aspect of Mumbai life. The Dabbawallas are incredibly punctual and reliable in their rustic methodology without the need for IT trackers or fancy software. Food for thought indeed!
Dharavi
Dharavi is one of the world’s largest slum, home to more than 1 million people, and sits on prime real estate in land scarce Mumbai. While I was reminded of the lyrics of the song ” we build this city…built this city on rock n roll…” the residents, comprising Muslims and Hindus co-existing in claustrophobic spaces of buzzing activity and livelihood, have built this “city” of theirs through sheer tenacity, hard labour and grit. Many are immigrants from near and far, some of whom have settled here for generations. This is truly a melting pot of harmony in diversity.
Words cannot express the way of life in Dharavi. Unfortunately we were not allowed to take photos as we step into their world which is manifestly unreal to us city dwellers and mega- consumerists. According to a rather dated National Geographic article in 2007, partitions of 300 sq feet ( about the size of a food truck ) were shared between 15 people and whatever living organisms that choose to share that space with them. One of us asked whether it is safe for women and the answer is a resounding “yes”. In the narrow, winding alleys of Dharavi, we encountered the resident chefs busy preparing piping hot snacks for the workers after a hard days’ work, numerous cottage industries for plastic and metal recycling, garment and bag manufacturing, just to mention a few. There was an open furnace with red hot fire coming out and a few men without masks or shirts manning it. Life is hard and spartan, but there is a sense of serenity and contentment amidst the chaos and austerity. We were mostly silent along the way, as our very knowledgeable guide rattled on, absorbed in our own thoughts as our value system and perspectives are being challenged right there and then.
Faces of Mumbai
Mumbai is a city of extremes and everything else in between. As for the people…this is what popped out when I googled. ( http://www.mumbai.org.uk/people.html ) “The people of Mumbai are considered to be a chirpy, tireless lot who are streamlined for a fast paced life in the city. Colloquially known as ‘Mumbaikars’ or ‘Bombayites’, the inhabitants of this city are often considered as hard-working, cultural, witty, modern people, who are passionate about their lives and are very approachable…” While we encountered street peddlers along the streets striving hard to bring home something to feed their family, no one was begging for a hand-out. Everyone has a job to do, no matter how small, and they take pride in it.
Sightseeing, Shopping, and other Frivolous Pursuits
Banganga
Nestled among the high-rise apartments in the exclusive Malabar Hill district is the Banganga Tank and its neighbouring Shiva temple, an ancient site of spiritual significance. It is believed that when Rama went in search of his wife who had been kidnapped by Ravana, he stopped at this spot to ask his brother Laksmana to bring him some water. Laksmana shot an arrow into the ground, and water gushed forth from the ground, creating a tributary of the Ganges, which flows over a thousand miles away. Hence Banganga, the Ganga created by a baan (arrow). This area remains a quiet haven of peace and refuge from the hustle-bustle of Mumbai.
As we made out way along the alleyways, it was a panorama of human activity, bathed in rich, vibrant accents of red, orange, yellow, and pink.
Elephanta Caves – UNESCO World Heritage
This is the site for an ancient temple devoted to Shiva. It is an hour’s ferry ride away from the Gateway of India and a very short novelty train ride from the jetty.
Kala Ghoda- Mumbai’s Art District
Stepping out in Kala Ghoda was like a reprieve from the mad frenzied pace of Mumbai as we know it. It is paved with cobbled lanes and lined by majestic Art Deco buildings , Art Galleries, Kitschy coffee clubs, creative wall murals, and even a Synagogue. And just like New York and London have their Soho district, this is the SoBo ( South Bombay ) of Mumbai.
Marine Drive
Marine Drive is a picturesque boulevard at the heart of the city. Built on reclaimed land in 1920, it is a ‘C’-shaped six-lane concrete road that hugs a natural bay. It is also known as the Queen’s Necklace because the street lights resemble a string of pearls in a necklace when viewed at night. This area is Mumbai’s most fashionable and most expensive piece of real estate. Many Bollywood stars reside here. We have driven down this stretch several times in the hope of a sighting but spotted other suave look-alikes instead. It is a popular hangout for the locals who are fond of strolling along the elevated walkway with young courting couples seated sporadically in their preferred spots, lost in their own idyllic domain.
So Little Time, So Much to Buy
Mumbai is the serial shopper’s paradise. There are malls, boutiques, specialty shops, markets and bazaars to suit every taste and pocket. We did the Mumbai economy proud with our efforts!
Festivals
Gudi Padwa is a festival that marks the traditional new year for Marathi Hindus and ushers in the arrival of spring. Men, women and children line the streets, singing and dancing, dressed in bright, vivid colours. At some point we were invited to join in their dancing. It was delightful to be included in the celebrations on such an occasion.
Back at home with V
We raided V’s wardrobe for saris to dress up bollywood style for our last night in Mumbai and boy, this sassy lady has everything we need to up the glam factor.
Homeward Bound
V and S were the most awesome hosts who opened their homes to us and treated us with heartfelt hospitality. Through their eyes, we saw intimate vignettes of Mumbai life, but experienced first hand their warmth, kindness and generosity. In these 5 days, we laughed, cried, ate, drank, danced,shopped and shared a little of that something that draw us closer as friends. It has been the most invigorating, exhilarating trip ever for me and it wouldn’t have happened without these two special people. V, you took such good care of us right down to the smallest details! Thank you from the bottom of my heart and to A and B whose company, antics, jokes and hair colour added more spice to the trip. Love you all.
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