Kochi, Here We come, Biennale and More
A Good Excuse to Visit – Kochi Bienale 2018/2019
Take 2 good friends with a shared passion in art, travel and the same spontaneous gung-ho. Something was brewing in Kochi and it was too good an opportunity to miss. I have never been to Kochi before and C has not even stepped foot in India previously. A quick check on the schedules, while the fingers did the rest on the internet with the itinerary, flights and accommodation.
India is a place which does not elicit half-hearted responses. You either love it or hate it. Knowing C, I reckoned there is a high chance she would love it and she did!
After several visits to different Indian cities over the years, I have only one criteria – must stay in a good hotel to be pampered and regain your sanity, after the bombardment of all your senses which India dispenses without mercy; the Taj, no less. So we settled on the somewhat exclusive Taj Malabar Resort on the man-made Willingdon Island, packed our bags and off we went…
The Kochi-Muziris Biennale
This was conceived in 2010 and is now in its fourth run. The theme is ambitious – “Possibilities for a Non-Alienated Life” with 94 projects by 138 artists from 32 countries exhibiting in this biennale. Yes, it would take a woman who’s man enough for the job under the curatorship and vision of Anita Dube. Spread over several venues, C & I spent some three leisurely days to soak in the art and the rest to do the touristy stuff ( so we didn’t hunt down every exhibit – we do love art but not too much! )
Here’s my pick of the favourites from this bonanza of social commentary involving identity, memory, nostalgia and a better future for all.
- Bapi Das – an auto-rickshaw driver in Kolkata who makes his experiences come to life in the form of intricate embroidered needlework.
2. Shilpa Gupta – ” For, In Your Tongue, I Can Not Fit- 100 Jailed Poets”. This is a poignant interactive installation in a hauntingly dimmed space where you can barely make out the shadows. There are exactly 100 speaking microphones that are delicately positioned above metal stakes that each impales a page of poetry. As you enter, you are greeted with a cacophony of voices of imprisoned poets past that beckon to you from each microphone…
3. Goshka Macuga – A Polish artist living in London who revisits the overlooked and forgotten histories in each new place she exhibits around the world.
4. Celia-Yunior: A collaborative partnership of two Cuban artists, Celia Alvarez and Yunior Perdomo.
5. Sue Williamson – British artist working in South Africa
I could go on and on but you have to be there to experience it in all its bewildering totality. Catch the Biennale again in 2 year’s time!
One Day at the Kerala Backwaters
Most reviews rave about it as it is the primary reason to come to Kerala. Others were more skeptical. We were in two minds about it but finally succumbed out of “touristy curiosity” and the fear of self-loathing if we return home without doing IT. You can either do it in style, butler and all, in a luxe house-boat all to yourself, or the low cost way with a whole bunch of backpackers. We chose the latter. There was a momentous pause when one of our 20-odd travelling companions ( who were all happy home-stay dwellers ) asked which “home-stay” we were at. I quickly mumbled ” the one at Willingdon Island “.
It’s all about cruising along on the backwaters, either which way. How different can it get, apart from the number of zeros in your invoice? It came to a grand total of 1000 Indian rupees per person, booked with Destination Travel, with lunch thrown in for a 7-hour half day trip. The road trip took about 2 hours, boating 3 hours with a communal lunch break and the obligatory stop to watch how rope is made from coconut coir. All’s well and good. Been there, done that!
Back to Creature Comforts
It is great to kick-start our days with a sumptuous buffet breakfast with a view and to return to delectable dining at the Taj with the freshest of the catch-of-the day! Oh, it also came with perks like late afternoon tea on the lawn, followed by a sun-set cruise ( which outshone the modest backwaters house-boat by several notches. Spoilt rotten and not ashamed in the least!
Out and About
We had lunch, we had fun, we had seasons in the sun…Shopped, dropped, re-hydrate, watched a cultural dance, picked up a helpful ( but overly-friendly ) tuk-tuk driver who brought us places and got over-tipped by us, visited cottage industries, hunted down street art, got well rubbed and oiled at an ayuvedic massage…think we managed to squeeze in a whole lot of activities without over-stretching ourselves.
I do deserve this pair of angel wings for showing great restraint at the shops. C is guilty on all counts.
How many facial expressions can you make – let me count the ways. At least 100 ways just rolling his eyes!
Street Art in and around the city
Lingering Thoughts
We came, we were charmed and dazzled by the warmth and the myriad of attractions this city had to offer. The Biennale was a showcase of multi-talented artists but at the same time refreshingly unpretentious, befitting of the theme and setting. It has been a most memorable and enjoyable holiday, not least with a lovely travelling companion and good friend. Good job, C & Y!
Now to make plans for our next vacay together at the other end of the globe…
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